Food

Jamaican Food-focused Snapshot from Miami

“Yuh waah bwile green banana an yam fi dinna?” my grandmother called in Jamaican patois from the kitchen. I hung over the couch, watching her favorite show, Walker, Texas Ranger, upside down. She adapted to the ease of American-living within the first year of moving to Miami, but her palate never changed. ...

Artisanal Meats for Sustainable Eats: An Ethical Carnivore’s Map to Los Angeles

It’s Friday night, after work, and the symmetrical grocery store aisles are flooded with drones of human beings trying to get dinner on the table. For most, meat will be on the menu. Exceptions: Vegans, Vegetarians, Pescatarians, subscribers to GOOP, people who attended Woodstock in the 70’s, whoever drinks Skinny Tea… quite frankly the list is long and you get the point. Empty pockets, much like stomachs, usually incite people to opt for the easiest options, but will you make that extra effort to find ethical, sustainable and significantly pricier meat, as opposed to the average cut at your local grocery store?...

The Phoenix Who Serves Duck

Sixteen years ago, Ko-Hsin Fan found herself sobbing over her restaurant’s giant wok. It was Thanksgiving Day. The chef had walked out in a fit of anger after a dispute with the sous chef. She had to step in and take over the kitchen. “I had no idea what I was cooking,” she says, “my tears just drop and drop from my eyes, mixing with my sweat. I was counting every second of that day.” The restaurant was fully booked for Thanksgiving, which had a set menu, but as of 9 A.M. on the morning of, Fan did not even know how to start a restaurant stove. Servers hid in the kitchen, afraid to tell customers what was happening behind the dining room. Her sous-chef couldn’t help, as he was busy with slicing Peking duck. Angry customers ran into the back and demanded their food or a manager to explain the situation. Fan was hopeless. “At one point, I told my servers it’s okay not to take the money for that night because I failed them.”...

Nostalgia Wrap

After an intense basketball game (well, as intense as a bunch of ten-year-olds running up and down a court gets) my reward was a pita sandwich. It did not matter whether we won or lost; my father would always drive my younger sister and me to Tarzana Armenian Deli (TAD) to grab a bite. I’d enthusiastically skip into the shop while my sister and father would lag behind.  The employees greet me with a familiar smile. My father orders three turkey sandwiches while my sister and I run to the chip rack to choose our favorite salty treat. “WAIT,” a lightbulb would go off in my mind. “Mom wants us to get Armenian string cheese!” I run towards the white, braided cheese with sprinkles of black sesame dispersed throughout. As we collect our treats and groceries, my father walks to the coolers in the back of the shop to grab tan, a yogurt-based drink popular in the Middle East. Once our sandwiches are ready, I take my bright red tray to the small white table near the windows....

Messob’s Higher Purpose Bread in Little Ethiopia

The earth-colored collage of stewed meats and lentils you find at Messob is already a beautiful mess. And the situation only gets stickier when the restaurant staff encourages you to share in gursha – the Ethiopian ritual of hand-feeding your companion chunks of this aromatic, peppery mash-up....